All Rights Reserved. An aerial view of the coastline in Kihei, Hawaii, shows reflection, refraction, and diffraction of water waves (Fig. The speed and energy of water in rip currents can be very dangerous. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called: The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to: "Whitecaps" form when _____________________. The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to, The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to, The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a, the distance over which the wind blows without interruption, Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces, As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ____. e.All of the above might be found along a secondary coast. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave velocity Wavelength decreases. -Wave period is the inverse of wave amplitude. Compared with a solar day, a lunar day is: d.very high high tides and very low low tides. Eddies typically spin off of larger ocean current systems; they can stretch for hundreds of miles and last for months. Three types of breaking waves include (A) plunging breakers, (B) spilling breakers, and (C) surging breakers. Spilling waves advance to shore with a line of foam tumbling steadily down the front of the wave face. Waves converge on headlands due to: a.constructive interference. -Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. How are headlands and bays formed a level geography? A) gravity waves. in shallow water, the ENERGY of the tsunami must be contained within a SMALLER water column. (A) A warning sign explains rip current dangers and how to avoid them. b.rise in sea level due to a large weight of glacier on a continental mass. The circular motion of water molecules. When a meander from the gulf stream pinches off and isolates a body of water within the North Atlantic gyre, the body of water is called a ____. Choose all that apply. calcareous ooze (CaCO3, plankton shells) Fig. A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. Eustatic (global) changes in sea level might include: a.increased glacial and sea ice melting due to global warming. 4 D) wave reflection.E) wave refraction. orbital waves. (B) A sign at Haena Beach Park, Kauai, HawaiI, warns swimmers that rip currents can sweep swimmers out to sea. How do I get rid of mosquitoes in my room fast? -Waves in phase have different wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-trough and trough-to-peak Refraction is the change in direction of waves as they move between materials with different properties. The large, flat muscle that moves up and down to alter the volume of the chest cavity is the a. trachea. Of the following situations involving orthogonals, which one involves the highest energy? Oceanography Exam 2 Dubbs Flashcards | Quizlet -When two waves that have long wavelength interfere. The coastline is the boundary between the ocean and the land. Will Xbox Series X ever be in stock again? These three wave types are shown in Fig. -the highest part of the wave -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave OCE1001 Exam 2 Flashcards All of the following statements are true of ocean sediments except: Ocean sediments are thickest in pelagic waters overlying the oceanic ridges. b.coastal flooding. on the continental rise by a turbidity current (under water landslide). Which is technically the most correct with respect to tides? Waves converge on headlands due to _____. Deep ocean circulation is driven primarily by __________. The time it takes for a full wave to pass a stationary object is called the wave: Period. west into the coastal waters ___________. Deep water currents move ___ volumes of water and are much ____ than surface currents. -Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. -a gently sloping rocky bottom -Water moves in a circle in the same direction as wave movement. Use Advanced Search to search by activities, standards, and more. Term. This process is called shoaling, and it causes the height of waves to increase (Fig. The color coding reveals that wave heights are associated with, Wind fetch is _______. Oceanography Exam 2 Quiz Sheet - Knowledge Mouse a. is a function of the wind direction. Waves converge on headlands due to: Wave refraction Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves: Sea, swell, surf. 5.9 B). Diffraction occurs when waves pass through an opening or around a barrier and change direction (Fig. At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide, which is why they are misnamed "tidal waves." 5.6. Why does the damming of rivers sometime contribute to coastal erosion? People like to surf both types of waves. -The waves are moving faster just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. In addition, for many the ocean is a source of inspiration, recreation, rejuvenation, and discovery. As waves move into shallower water, they contact the bottom and begin to move slower (see theWave Energy and Wave Changes with Depth topic in the Waves unit). a. winds blowing across the ocean surface (wrong answers: density differences between water layers , Earth's rotation , landslides , seismic events ) ; An internal wave might form _____. Clay Minerals -The waves have longer wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave -The depth of the wave base is three-quarters of the wavelength of the waves. Sediment layer with larger particles on the bottom and finer particles toward the top. A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. 52. E)wave refraction. Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called a/an ________. An in crease in seawater density can be caused by a ___ in temperature or a/an ___ in salinity. Fig. Fig. Landforms created by erosion include, Erosion is a natural process which shapes cliffs . at a density boundary within the ocean (wrong answers: at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor , close to shore as it moves into shallow water , only as a . Remains of ancient rocks of cosmic origin. Profiles of typical coastal features, see Table 5.3 to identify the features marked with letters. E. sea or sea area. Multiple Choice Waves converge on headlands due to: A)constructive interference. What physical factors affect the magnitude of a gravitational force? principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth. -Mixed interference Water moves in a circle in the same direction as wave movement. When you're ready to print, just click this button: An estuary is a semi-enclosed coastal body of water where, Figure 8A-1 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig08A-1.png The Coriolis Effect deflects a fluid to the ______ in the Northern Hemisphere. The location of breaking waves at a particular location depends on the depth of the water and wave characteristics like wave height, wavelength, and direction of wave movement. How do headlands and bays form on discordant coastlines? At the beach, a rip current usually begins where longshore currents collide and then flow together out to sea. D) constructive interference. Weathering is the chemical and physical break down of a rock over a long period of time. The movement of air across the ocean surface creates ____ waves. -the lowest part of the wave - Wave speed is equal to wavelength divided by period. By the time the wave reached the "6 hours" line west of Hawai'i, the wave moved slower in some places than in others. a. A tsunami may result from: Tectonic activity on the seafloor A tsunami is considered to be a: 24. Other physical processes, such as wind, tides, and storms can also shape the features of a beach. The steeper the bottom slope, the greater the increase in wave height. Fig. Two most abundant dissolved substances in seawater are? In other words, why not just put in one groin? Waves converge on headlands due to wave refraction Standing waves may be caused by wave reflection A tsunami may result from ____. Select only one answer. surf swells spilling breakers When will perfect destructive interference occur? Tidal ranges will be greatest when the Earth and the Moon are at ________. Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water? Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep water by submerging. What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed interference? Coastal winds can cause upwelling or downwelling due to which of the following? the waves are in extremely shallow water; in fact, it controls the wave speed if the depth of the bottom is less than about one twentieth of the wave length, so as the waves approach shore, they increase in height, they slow down, and they get closer together, and eventually the wave becomes unstable as the orbits interfered with at b.destructive interference. Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest density? What is an interference pattern? Explore our library and get Introduction to Oceanography Homework Help with various study sets and a huge amount of quizzes and questions, Find all the solutions to your textbooks, reveal answers you wouldt find elsewhere, Scan any paper and upload it to find exam solutions and many more, Studying is made a lot easier and more fun with our online flashcards, Try out our new practice tests completely, 2020-2023 Quizplus LLC. If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? 5.4. Buried sediment on the continental shelf. surface currents form circular patterns in the major ocean basins called "gyres.". Which of the following is true of surface water circulation near Antartica? Correct Answer: Access For Free Review Later Choose question tag 5.19. 5.18. As a wave approaches shore, its characteristics change by _____________________. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction. The energy of waves help to shape coastal features. -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point. Arial view of large surf zone in South Australia (Dog Fence Beach, western Eyre Peninsula). -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. We invite you to share your thoughts, ask for help or read what other educators have to say by. Fig. Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. Water waves travel faster in deep water than in shallow water. 51 Waves converge on headlands due to a constructive interference b a low reproduction rate for sharks, thus a low replacement rate high bycatch on longlines that are meant for other fish "shark finning" All. For example, if a wave approaches a seawall at a 45 degree angle of incidence, the wave direction propagates away from the wall at a 45 degree angle of reflection (Fig. c. Earth rotates into and out of tidal bulges. An estuary formed from a flooded glacial valley is called a: An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have: two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily. c. Earth rotates into and out of tidal bulges. Over time, erosion can cause cliff collapse therefore the coastline needs to be managed. An estuary formed from a flooded glacial valley is called a: An estuary produced by faulting or folding of rocks that creates a dropped-down section into which a river flows is called a: The large outflow of the Columbia River into the Pacific Ocean, causes: Which physical factor(s) influence(s) the surface circulation patterns in marginal seas? The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to ____. What is the difference between a restaurant and a brasserie? Destructive interference c. Wave diffraction d. Wave reflection e. Wave refraction. 5.3. (B) Wave diffraction and reflection in Koieie Loko Ia fishpond. -When waves with short wavelengths interfere. wave refraction. Why do waves converge on headlands? - Answers b.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during summer. B. fetch, wind duration, and wind speed, A. the distance over which the wind blows without interruption, B. a method of shoreline erosion control, C. the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level, D. the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes. Coastal upwelling along the coast of Chile is a result of winds from the ___ turning towards the ____ due to Ekman transport. it is not available on demand, and there currently is no viable way to store the energy, Chp 4: Administrative Regulations & Rulings, Chp 3: Constitution & Legislative Sources, Lecture 19 - Spinal Cord, Reflexes and the Br. The angle of incidence ranges from zero degrees, which is like a wave approaching a wall head on, to slightly greater than 90 degrees, which is like a wave approaching parallel to the wall. Most ocean waves form as a result of ____. The spinning rings that break away from the Gulf Stream and move. This phenomenon concentrates wave energy on headlands and diffuses wave energy in bays. The difference between centripetal forces and gravitational forces is called the ________. -Wave amplitude remains the same as depth increases. Surf zones are found along the shores of the ocean as well as the shores of many large lakes. Fig. -Rogue waves. The California current is an example of which of the following types of currents? A wave cut platform refers to the narrow flat area often seen at the base of a sea cliff caused by the action of the waves. Winter Beaches: a.are narrower than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. Evaporites (gypsum, halite) The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. -the lowest part of the wave b. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction, they bounce wave energy back across the beach and cause erosion, When waves approach the shore and enter shallow water, the waves slow down and the wave height increases, seacliffs are exposed to wave action, and they are also steep slopes, which can make them susceptible to landslides. Fig. B) plunging breakers. d.wave reflection. Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave "life"? Wave period is the inverse of wave frequency. Fig. b. thick layers of evaporitic minerals (e.g., salts) on the seafloor. L1 is the wavelength of the incoming waves and L2 is the wavelength of the refracted waves. 5.18). Which of the following is the only current that completely circumscribes Earth? The speed of a shallow-water wave is a function of wave period. Four common types of surfing breaks include beach, point, reef, and river mouth: Tides can dramatically affect the quality of surf because they influence both water motion and the relative depth of the bottom contour. wave reflection. Fig. As the bay is surrounded by land, one can come across calmer waters than the oceans. Weathering of the crust produces sediment and. Which of the following currents contributes to the South Western United States being humid? a. boulders, rocks, clay b. gravel, sand, mud c. lithogenous, hydrogenous, biogenous d. conglomerate, sandstone, shale e. igneous. -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs Global warming will likely be accompanied by sea level rise. -Pure destructive interference Fig. The waves touch bottom. These differences in energy can affect the shape of the coastline. If the process of speciation appears to occur relatively rapidly, why don't we see new species evolving all the time? The average water depth between your island and Japan is 4900 m. If a tsunami warning is issued for your island, how many hours will you have before the waves arrive? Coastal features are constantly changing; the same beach can look different over the span of a season or even a day. Concordant Coastlines This type of coastline is one where only one type of rock is facing the sea. Based on the graph, which of the following has the lowest temperature? -Superwaves What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact? shallow-water wave The movement of air across the ocean surface creates ____ waves. destructive interference. b. destructive interference.c. 5.9. -The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. Waves are usually smaller, but choppier, in the area of a rip current. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. Term. The gravitational attraction among the Earth, Moon, and Sun. A. constructive interference B. wave refraction C. wave diffraction D. destructive interference E. wave reflection Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation? . A storm surge b. Compared to Antarctic Bottom Water, North Atlantic Deep Water is ____. c.increased wave action. . There is constructive interference between the lunar and solar tidal bulges during ________ tides. Waves converge on headlands due to __________. 17. North Atlantic Central Surface Water (NACSW). Based on the equations for determining the speed of shallow-water waves, which one of the following variables is necessary to determine the speed of shallow-water waves? c. there is not an established relationship between evaporation and Atlantic inflow. Air trapped inside the barrel of the wave may explode or spit out of the barrel as the wave races along. Waves converge on headlands due to: A) destructive interference. The map below shows some popular surf spots. Anatomy of a rip current, showing how currents parallel to shore intersect with the rip current heading out to sea. true or false . The New Moon is immediately followed by the ________ phase of the Lunar Cycle. Waves are the result of disturbance of the water surface; waves themselves represent a restoring force to calm the surface. Suggest a correction? If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height. -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough, -Waves in phase have identical wavelengths and are aligned peak-to-peak and trough-to-trough. -A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. Which of the following statements is true of surface ocean currents? The vertical distance between a wave and a wave trough is called the ____. There are surf breaks all over the Pacific ocean basin. Waves that are breaking along the shore and are. As a wave advances, and each time it breaks, it loses energy. the supply of new sand to replenish beaches is cut off Definition. the inverse of wave frequency Course Hero is not sponsored or endorsed by any college or university. -the distance between consecutive wave crests or troughs A. plunging breaker Alternating layers of hard and soft rock allow the sea to erode the soft rock faster, forming a bay but leaving hard rock sticking out, known as a headland. A vast majority of all large tsunami are generated in the ____ ocean. The maximum tidal currents are reported ________. 58) Waves converge on headlands due to: A) constructive interference. Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base? What are two sources of dissolved salts in sea water? What is a drawback of seawalls? Internal waves are formed by the movement of water of different densities along an air-water interface. Wave-Coast Interactions | manoa.hawaii.edu/ExploringOurFluidEarth In general, bays will have more sedimentation, because they have less wave energy, and headlands will have more erosion, due to the higher amount of wave energy reaching them. The interaction of longshore currents and eddy currents with coastal features produces stable, nearshore circulation patterns. . Local weather does not often produce great surf because swells need time and space (fetch) to become organized. -Wave refraction at the headland increases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays. These lines of weakness get enlarged and develop into small sea caves. C) spilling breakers. -the lowest part of the wave, What is the wave height? Which of the following currents contributes to the South Western United States being arid? Use a ripple tank to observe various properties of propagating waves including interference, reflection, refraction, and diffraction. - Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of formation of waves? -a gently sloping sandy bottom. -the furthest distance a wave can get to shore before dissipating -The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. Course Hero is not sponsored or endorsed by any college or university. Surface ocean currents are driven primarily by ___ and modified by ____. Because the focal spot results from the interference of these two waves, the time-reversed field can always be expressed (for a monochromatic wave) as the imaginary part of the Green's function (22). a.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during spring. Eight of the ten largest cities on Earth are located on the coast. e. wave refraction. Compared to western boundary currents, eastern boundary currents are ___. On the other hand, waves approaching a headland converge and concentrate energy, also due to refraction (Fig. Printable Flash Cards due to evaporation along the equator, the water in these currents has much, higher salinity than coastal waters or surface water in the center of the. Tsunamis look like walls of white water advancing toward shore and can cause great damage when they run up the beach and onto land. b.at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean. Why are headlands more susceptible to erosion than bays? Waves are required in order to have surf. Waves - building, seawater, sea, depth, oceans, largest, types, system Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis? -When waves with identical amplitudes interfere. This is because offshore winds help to hold the face of the wave up and open, to provide a smooth, surfable surface. An eddy is a circular, whirlpool-like, movement of water (Fig. Eventually, the wave will reach a height that causes it to break, or fall over onto itself. The vertical difference between consecutive high and low tides is called the ________. Three types of breaking waves include ( A) plunging breakers, ( B) spilling breakers, and ( C) surging breakers. The graph shown is an example of a ________ tidal pattern. How a wave breaks depends not only on the steepness of the bottom slope but also on whether the bottom slope is smooth or irregular, whether the bottom is composed of shifting sands or solid rock, and even whether the water on the bottom is calm or moving. Landforms and beach slope can also affect waves, currents, and the movement of water. Fossilized remains of ancient marine life. Wave refraction. Spilling breakers form when fast-moving water at the top of a wave spills over slower-moving water at the bottom. -Freak waves Grunion spawning patterns have evolved to take advantage of ________ associated with tides. Fig. That is a practical application of utilizing the ____________________.
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